Laying Some Track

Once all the modules were completed I started to apply the track plan (on paper) to the modules and modified it slightly at the join between the modules. I wanted solid foundations for the rails at the module ends, so I used 40mm x 8mm Tasmanian Oak glued into a rebate made with a router that will leave it flush with the foam roadbed the track will run on. You may need to do some testing on the effect of the glue you intend to use on the foam board as it may dissolve it like I didn't do with Liquid Nails Fast Grab.

The photo below is from Mt Rainbow Yard.

Middle module for Mt Rainbow Yard.

Spread over three modules is Callide Mine yard.

The following photos show the progress of the Callide Mine Branch from the mine to Mt Rainbow Yard.

As you can see in the photo above I have put plywood ends on the modules to give them a bit more strength.

Once I had a rough idea where the track was going I started to build up the scenery.

Once the foam was carved into shape it was time to lay the foam underlay and then the track I was using coke cans as weights but the wife and kids drank them all.

The bridge retaining walls were too wide for the space available so cut them and placed them on an angle. I didn't plan to have a bridge here but I came across a kit on Facebook and liked the look of it, I also had to modify the module to give it a home as you can see by the cutout.

Each track has individual feeders soldered to the track and connected to the main power supply via suitcase connectors with male and female RCA type connectors between the modules.

Callide Junction below with the line diverging to Biloela (staging yard) to the left.

When I drew up the track plan I made sure most of the track met at the modules edge was 90 degrees to the join, however there are two exceptions. The entry and exit from the staging yards due to lack of space is on an angle. It's not that big a deal but you have to be accurate with your cuts and reinforce the rail to keep it in alignment.

The following photos document the development of the east end of Mt Rainbow yard and the line to Gladstone (staging) on the coast.

Ok in this photo above the mine track road bed is in place and the scenery / view block is in place. To the right of the photo the four track yard at Mt Rainbow is already laid, it's location was a given but the rest of the track was up for alteration. You can also see I have got the end blocks in place for the main line.

Trying to find the best place for the turntable.

Found it

Laying track leading to Gladstone (staging east end) and joints for the track leading to the turntable from each direction.

Bridge assembly and track laying.

Above and below I had to cut some of the spacers below for the sleepers to get them to fit on the support beams of the bridge, I also added guard rails.

Ok the bridge is done time to get some landscaping in place.

I tried a few different was to move the points before I settled on a final solution I was looking for, the one above used a slice of circuit board to act as the throw rod. The one below used a piece of sleeper but both used the original tie bar to hold the rails in place and that proved to be too weak to hold up to the stress I was placing on it.

My solution was to remove the plastic tie bar and replace it with a thicker P.C board to minimize movement and solder the rails to it. Just give it a coat of rail tie brown and it looks like timber in the photo below

Building a Bridge Kit

I picked up this Goldline Products bridge kit as part of a bundle sale I found quite by random on a Facebook sell swap and buy group. This is one of three things that I really wanted and the rest are going on Ebay. The makers of this kit should be commended with easy to follow instructions and the plan for the bridge being actual size so it is a simple cut to size and assemble.

The kit comes in a cardboard tube packed nice and tight.

I strongly suggest you make some copies of the supplied plan as you will use it as a template that will get torn and glue on it.

You will need to make four of these.

To make the retaining wall I used pins to keep the timbers together and inline while the glue dried.

I then added the retaining posts and stained the timber.

The instructions suggest masking tape to secure the bridge cross ties which was a good call.

Turns out if you use a piece of the wood used for the retaining wall as a spacer you can get it done faster.

Once you have the crossbeams in place you can glue the main beams in place. 

The finished deck complete with bolts for extra detail.

Couldn't help myself.

Time to add the included detail bolt heads supplied with the kit.

Use a mitre box if you intend to cut the sections.

Use the plan to align the sections.

The unplanned creek bed ready for the bridge after extensive modifications to the module.

I had to mount the bridge on some timber to get it to the correct height.

Module Construction

After previously helping to build a small club N scale layout with a steel tube frame and working on a Ho scale layout with a steel and hardwood frame I decided to go a more lightweight route for my fun sized On30 layout. As a proof of concept I have decided to build the three modules for Mt Rainbow yard first, they are 1200mm x 600mm and consist of foam board and what is called a plywood sandwich or laminated girder. Big thanks to this club for posting this page which has been an excellent guide for my design. http://www.bpmrc.org.uk/tech3.shtml

There are a few other pages on the net if you do a bit of a search which are of great value, after some thought I changed my mind about making the layout for display, the time and distance involved as well as money was more than I am willing to commit to and my enjoyment of the layout will come first but that is not to say that I will not take it on the road if time or conditions allow.
The foam board on the three yard modules will fit flush inside the outside frame to offer it some protection from impacts. The end sections that will butt up against each other are 18mm ply to add extra strength. I have used marine grade ply to build the modules because of its consistent quality and smoother finish. If you want to save a lot of time and have consistent straight lengths get your timber cut on a panel saw, I had mine cut at the hardware store where I brought the plywood and depending on the number of cuts or length they may even do it for free.

This is one of the end pieces of the module the 18mm ply is 130mm high and the thinner 7mm ply is 100 mm and the spacer blocks are 20mm thick by 89 mm wide pine cut to 100 mm lengths.

Once you get your timber cut you can have a bit of an assembly line going.

The first module with the outsides complete but not the internal bracing yet I also had to add more spacers to the long sides to stop flexing as you will have seen in the previous photo. The photo below shows a almost finished module.

My first attempt above and below of a corner module and I will tell you the two things wrong with it, the curve is out of shape and under a lot of stress. The other is the module is too narrow to allow the whole track curve to be on the module.

So I went back to the internet and graph pad and pencil and came up with a new module design for the corners which I then drew on the garage floor to aid in construction which my little helper is standing in.

I salvaged the end pieces of the crap corner modules and used them in the better design.

I placed the modules on the ground to drill the locating pins, I used 1 inch timber dowel for this purpose. I waited to build the last corner module until I did this so I could make the module fit the gap rater than have an out of shape layout or gaps between the other modules.

 Because it will be an operation layout I wanted the layout at a good height to view and work on so once again I searched the net looking for designs and examples and was quite surprised as to how little there was out there. The ones that were out there didn't quite suit me but gave me some ideas to use in my design. My design is also compact as the inner legs fold into the profile of the thicker legs, hinges are expensive and have a bit of play in them I decided to use bolts with a butterfly nut at the pivot point. The angle of the cut is 15 degrees

This is one of the three storage and transport racks under construction not only is Charlot hot but she is also freaking out due to the thunder storm about to arrive and cool down what has been a very hot day.

I put steerable rollers on one end of the storage units and fixed rollers on the other end and they seem to work well and are rated at 50kg each.

 

 The finished rack for two corner modules and the support legs, they will all fit vertically but it was the end of a long hot day and I just wanted to pack up.

The three storage racks together and as you can see by the bottom two modules on the right I have started to add the foam board.

I wanted to make the layout quick and easy to set up by one person, to facilitate this I put some 8 mm plugs into the top of the supports to secure the modules but allow movement for assembly or when you disassemble the layout. Not all the plugs are loose like this, every second set of legs have holes drilled into the end spacer blocks to provide a stable support for the layout.

First time on the trestle legs and no problems at all to my surprise.

Now the fun starts as I add foam to make the hills leading to the mine and to hide the staging yard.

Bells Creek bridge.

I have capped the end of the scenery foam with ply wood to make them more resistant to impacts when assembling the modules. I left gaps and cut the pieces to size.