Wednesday, August 3, 2022

Making a Coal Load

I wanted to make some better looking coal loads for my hoppers but my first attempt to make some light weight ones were a flop. I used the same insulation foam from the module construction but found they flexed and could no stand up to anything but gentle handling. The ones you see here are the second attempt. I used strong but light Tasmanian Oak and there was none available at the width required I used a thinner cut and glued them together to get a perfect fit.

Glued and sanded to fit then painted ready for the coal to be applied, I placed a 70mm nail in the middle before I applied the coal over the top, unfortunately I didn't get a photo of this step.
I sprayed the base with a 1 to 2 mix of PVA glue then sprinkled the coal over it and when I was happy with the look I sprayed it with more glue. You may need to sand the sides to make a good fit but most of the overhang just drops off when it get too close to the edge.
The load on the left compared to the plastic load on the right, the coal I used had a lot of rock in it so I decided to give it a coat of flat black paint to give it an even color.
Finished loads.



Callide Coal Mine

This mine kit although based on a U.S example is very similar to many of the Queensland coalmine photos I have been able to find online and is easy to construct due to its well thought out design and detailed instructions. This will not be a "how to" post just an overview on how I put it together and put it on the layout. If you want a comprehensive build post follow this link.
                                                                 How To Mine Build


Some magnetic clamps make it easy to keep the walls square.

On30 module
Once I had the walls up I used them to plan the mine yard and tracks as well as the scenery.
On30 module

Gave them a coat of paint and started adding the windows and doors as well as adding the tin roof in the photo below.

Planning out the tailings run and checking the wagon clearance.

Now the spacing has been sorted out I had to grind off some scenery, while the buildings are not fixed to the module the tailing run is and I have also glued the foundations to the layout.

Tailings run finished.
Adding the tailings and restoring the ground cover around the supports.


While not part of the original plan I decided after seeing some online that the mine dock
needs a gantry crane so I freestyled one, these photos show we working out placement and clearances.


The crane being glued into place.
I also added strip wool the the tailings run to represent a walk way for the miners to push out the carts.

Rolling Stock Modification

The coal hopper on the right is how they come straight out of the box with the plastic coal load, the one on the left has load made of real coal.
Once I have removed the decals it's time for a coat of engine black to remove the plastic shine, before on the left and after on the right.




Laying Some Track

Once all the modules were completed I started to apply the track plan (on paper) to the modules and modified it slightly at the join between the modules. I wanted solid foundations for the rails at the module ends, so I used 40mm x 8mm Tasmanian Oak glued into a rebate made with a router that will leave it flush with the foam roadbed the track will run on. You may need to do some testing on the effect of the glue you intend to use on the foam board as it may dissolve it like I didn't do with Liquid Nails Fast Grab.
The photo below is from Mt Rainbow Yard.
Middle module for Mt Rainbow Yard.
Spread over three modules is Callide Mine yard.

The following photos show the progress of the Callide Mine Branch from the mine to Mt Rainbow Yard.
As you can see in the photo above I have put plywood ends on the modules to give them a bit more strength.
Once I had a rough idea where the track was going I started to build up the scenery.
Once the foam was carved into shape it was time to lay the foam underlay and then the track I was using coke cans as weights but the wife and kids drank them all.
The bridge retaining walls were too wide for the space available so cut them and placed them on an angle. I didn't plan to have a bridge here but I came across a kit on Facebook and liked the look of it, I also had to modify the module to give it a home as you can see by the cutout.
Each track has individual feeders soldered to the track and connected to the main power supply via suitcase connectors with male and female RCA type connectors between the modules.
Callide Junction below with the line diverging to Biloela (staging yard) to the left.
When I drew up the track plan I made sure most of the track met at the modules edge was 90 degrees to the join, however there are two exceptions. The entry and exit from the staging yards due to lack of space is on an angle. It's not that big a deal but you have to be accurate with your cuts and reinforce the rail to keep it in alignment.
The following photos document the development of the east end of Mt Rainbow yard and the line to Gladstone (staging) on the coast.
Ok in this photo above the mine track road bed is in place and the scenery / view block is in place. To the right of the photo the four track yard at Mt Rainbow is already laid, it's location was a given but the rest of the track was up for alteration. You can also see I have got the end blocks in place for the main line.
Trying to find the best place for the turntable.
Found it
Laying track leading to Gladstone (staging east end) and joints for the track leading to the turntable from each direction.
Bridge assembly and track laying.
Above and below I had to cut some of the spacers below for the sleepers to get them to fit on the support beams of the bridge, I also added guard rails.

Ok the bridge is done time to get some landscaping in place.
I tried a few different was to move the points before I settled on a final solution I was looking for, the one above used a slice of circuit board to act as the throw rod. The one below used a piece of sleeper but both used the original tie bar to hold the rails in place and that proved to be too weak to hold up to the stress I was placing on it.

My solution was to remove the plastic tie bar and replace it with a thicker P.C board to minimize movement and solder the rails to it. Just give it a coat of rail tie brown and it looks like timber in the photo below